In loving memory of John
gregory bender

Moto Guzzi V700, Ambassador, V7 Special, Eldorado, 850 California, 850 GT - Footboards

Jens Lyck's Guzzitech.dk website archive is now hosted on This Old Tractor

Jens no longer owns a Moto Guzzi and has turned his attention toward his new motorcycle. Rather than let his wonderful online resource fade into oblivion, he has asked me to host his content (both the Danish and English versions). I am proud to do so. I have referenced his excellent compilation for years doing my own work and will continue to do so.

Please update your URLs:
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Other Moto Guzzi resources hosted on This Old Tractor

Carl Allison's wiring diagrams

Guzzitech.dk website archive - courtesy of Jens Lyck

Moto Guzzi Technical Training Videos

Topica Loopframe_Guzzi news group archive

Antietam Classic Cycle - Excellent service spanning tune-ups to restorations

Decals from John Prusnek - Very nicely produced decals you'll be proud to adhere

Relays from Dan Prunuske - Great product, great prices

MG Cycle - New Parts & Accessories for Moto Guzzis

Moto Guzzi Classics - Used and New Parts for Moto Guzzis plus excellent service

Stainless Cycle - Conveniently assembled and polished stainless fastener kits

Steering Damper Kit from Joe Jump

Zydeco Racing - Top notch transmission & rear drive service at unbelievable pricing

Footboard brake levers

Thanks to Craig Sheldrick for sending me this information via email.

It seems Moto Guzzi changed the style of the brake levers for the loop frames. Some are straight while others (perhaps later?) have a dog leg.

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Two different version of loop frame brake levers. Note the dog leg in the top brake lever. Photo courtesty of Craig Sheldrick.Two different version of loop frame brake levers. Note the dog leg in the top brake lever. Photo courtesty of Craig Sheldrick.

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A view of the brake linkage and the lack of a heel rest. Photo courtesty of Craig Sheldrick.A view of the brake linkage and the lack of a heel rest. Photo courtesty of Craig Sheldrick.

Footboard comparison - Bates vs DB

Thanks to John Ulrich for providing this information to me in a private email.

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Bates footboards. Notice the 'C' shaped bar to connect the front across the frame.Bates footboards. Notice the 'C' shaped bar to connect the front across the frame.

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DB footboards. They are larger than the Bates and notice the split in the mounting tabs where the brackets mount. Bates mount on one end of the tab or another but not thru the middle. Again a 'C' style front mounting bracket.DB footboards. They are larger than the Bates and notice the split in the mounting tabs where the brackets mount. Bates mount on one end of the tab or another but not thru the middle. Again a 'C' style front mounting bracket.

Footboard comparison - early vs. late Moto Guzzi as used on the loop frames

My Dad brought these footboards to me, both sets.

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Early set on the left, Later set on the rightEarly set on the left, Later set on the right

Here is what I *think* I know about them:

  • The set on the right is an original Moto Guzzi footboard set as was commonly fitted to the Eldorado police versions. It is complete except:
    • It is missing a couple clevis pins (easily sourced)
    • It is missing one of the longer engine/transmission mounting bolts (it only has one - easy to replace with an appropriate length of rod properly threaded on both ends.)
    • It has a later model brake lever that has the added heel rest nub. A great improvement, but not original.
  • The set on the left is an original Moto Guzzi footboard set as was fitted to the very early V700 and Ambassador police versions. Perhaps is was a prototype? It is complete except:
    • It is missing a couple clevis pins (easily sourced)
    • It is missing one of the two footboards (a set from a Harley could easily be made to work)
    • It is missing the pivoting mechanism for the shifter (I'll bet it was as simple as adapting the original shift shaft)
    • The brake pedal is obviously missing the heel rest nub and has been generally *altered*.
    • It is missing both of the longer engine/transmission mounting bolts/threaded rods
    • It is missing the fasteners that secure the footboards to the rails

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In looking at the Police Supplement to the 850 Spare Parts Catalog (no date on the one I have), I discovered that the Eldorado spare parts catalog shows the shape of the footboard and rails to be very similar to the earlier version shown here. It has holes in the footboard and shows fasteners for securing the mat to the footboard. It also clearly shows the cut-out in the left side frame rail.In looking at the Police Supplement to the 850 Spare Parts Catalog (no date on the one I have), I discovered that the Eldorado spare parts catalog shows the shape of the footboard and rails to be very similar to the earlier version shown here. It has holes in the footboard and shows fasteners for securing the mat to the footboard. It also clearly shows the cut-out in the left side frame rail.

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In looking at the Police Supplement to the 750 Spare Parts Catalog (dated October 1970), I discovered that the Eldorado spare parts catalog shows the shape of the footboard to be very similar to the earlier version shown here. But, the rails are clearly the shape of the later footboards (thanks to Charley Cole for pointing this difference out).In looking at the Police Supplement to the 750 Spare Parts Catalog (dated October 1970), I discovered that the Eldorado spare parts catalog shows the shape of the footboard to be very similar to the earlier version shown here. But, the rails are clearly the shape of the later footboards (thanks to Charley Cole for pointing this difference out).

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A closer look at the later, Eldorado set.A closer look at the later, Eldorado set.

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A closer look at the earlier, V700/Ambassador set.A closer look at the earlier, V700/Ambassador set.

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Yet another closer look at the earlier, V700/Ambassador set.Yet another closer look at the earlier, V700/Ambassador set.

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A side-by-side comparison of the brake side. The earlier set is nearer the camera. Notice the overall shape of the rail is a bit different. Note also the brake pedals are different. I think the original pedal on the earlier set was cut off and this replacement welded in place. The heal rest on the ealier set was also cut off and the pivot welded on lower. In other words, the early brake pedal has been butchered pretty severely...for reasons unknown. While I don't think the early and later brake pedals were 100% identical, this early version is in poor shape.A side-by-side comparison of the brake side. The earlier set is nearer the camera. Notice the overall shape of the rail is a bit different. Note also the brake pedals are different. I think the original pedal on the earlier set was cut off and this replacement welded in place. The heal rest on the ealier set was also cut off and the pivot welded on lower. In other words, the early brake pedal has been butchered pretty severely...for reasons unknown. While I don't think the early and later brake pedals were 100% identical, this early version is in poor shape.

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A side-by-side comparison of the rear end of the brake side. The earlier set is on the left. The earlier set has a nicer finish to it than the later set, what with the angled cut, etc.A side-by-side comparison of the rear end of the brake side. The earlier set is on the left. The earlier set has a nicer finish to it than the later set, what with the angled cut, etc.

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A side-by-side comparison of the shift side. The earlier set is nearer the camera. Notice the overall shape of the rail is a bit different. The shift pedals appear slightly different, but I think this is due to someone heating up the early version and bending it somewhat (as the chrome is discolored). The shift pivoting mechanisms are also different. The earlier side also has a nice cut away in the rail.A side-by-side comparison of the shift side. The earlier set is nearer the camera. Notice the overall shape of the rail is a bit different. The shift pedals appear slightly different, but I think this is due to someone heating up the early version and bending it somewhat (as the chrome is discolored). The shift pivoting mechanisms are also different. The earlier side also has a nice cut away in the rail.

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A better look at the shift levers.A better look at the shift levers.

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A better view of the cut-away in the earlier version.A better view of the cut-away in the earlier version.

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This is what I think the cut-away is for.This is what I think the cut-away is for.

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Not much difference in the brake rods...Not much difference in the brake rods...

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...though the later brake rod has a dog-leg in the bracket and the earlier brake rod does not. Notice some empty-headed numb-skull took a bloody hammer and mushroomed the end of the splines on the earlier version (bending the arm in the process). I'll have to champher that end and straighten the arm to make things work properly. Not the end of the world by any stretch of the imagination. But still!...though the later brake rod has a dog-leg in the bracket and the earlier brake rod does not. Notice some empty-headed numb-skull took a bloody hammer and mushroomed the end of the splines on the earlier version (bending the arm in the process). I'll have to champher that end and straighten the arm to make things work properly. Not the end of the world by any stretch of the imagination. But still!

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A look at the earlier footboard.A look at the earlier footboard.

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A close-up of the mounting point for the earlier footboard.A close-up of the mounting point for the earlier footboard.

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Kind of hard to see in this photo, but this is very nicely curved piece on the earlier footboard that prevents the footboard from pivoting down too far.Kind of hard to see in this photo, but this is very nicely curved piece on the earlier footboard that prevents the footboard from pivoting down too far.

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A view of the other curved piece.A view of the other curved piece.

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A later footboard held up to the earlier rail. Notice that mounts are not even close to being in the same position.A later footboard held up to the earlier rail. Notice that mounts are not even close to being in the same position.

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A view of the underside of the later footboards. Note the simple bars that prevent the boards from pivoting down too far.A view of the underside of the later footboards. Note the simple bars that prevent the boards from pivoting down too far.

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A side-by-side comparison of the two boards. The later set is nearer the camera. In addition to the shape difference, notice the holes in the earlier version. I believe the rubber mat was held in place with screws as opposed to adhesive.A side-by-side comparison of the two boards. The later set is nearer the camera. In addition to the shape difference, notice the holes in the earlier version. I believe the rubber mat was held in place with screws as opposed to adhesive.

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A veiw of the underside of each footboard. The later set is nearer the camera.A veiw of the underside of each footboard. The later set is nearer the camera.

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Another view of the underside of each footboard. The later set is nearer the camera. You can see the nice curved pivot stop pretty well on the earlier footboard.Another view of the underside of each footboard. The later set is nearer the camera. You can see the nice curved pivot stop pretty well on the earlier footboard.

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A final view of both footboards. The later set is nearer the camera.A final view of both footboards. The later set is nearer the camera.

Footboard engine and transmission mounting bolt length

The transmission mounting bolt length is the same as is used with foot pegs. This is because the width gained from the removal of the footpegs provides adequate space to mount the footbarods. The engine mounting bolt length, however, must be longer when footboards are fitted to accomodate the additional thickness of the footboard rails. Furthermore, there were two styles of mounting bolts. One style was a hex bolt. The other style was a rod threaded on each end.

Hex bolt dimensions

Front

  • Diameter: 12 mm
  • Thread pitch: 1.5 mm
  • Overall length (measured from under the head to the tip): 348 mm
  • Length of threads: 20 mm

Rear (same as bolt for foot pegs)

  • Diameter: 12 mm
  • Thread pitch: 1.5 mm
  • Overall length (measured from under the head to the tip): not yet measured mm
  • Length of threads: not yet measured mm

Threaded rod dimensions

Thanks to Robert Janka for providing these measurements to me.

Front

  • Diameter: 12 mm
  • Thread pitch: 1.5 mm
  • Overall length (measured from tip to tip): 360 mm
  • Length of threads (equal on both ends): 19 mm

Rear

  • Diameter: 12 mm
  • Thread pitch: 1.5 mm
  • Overall length (measured from tip to tip): 343 mm
  • Length of threads (equal on both ends): 16 mm

Footboard or foot board vs floorboard or floor board

There seems to be some confusion about what to call these things upon which you rest your feet:

  • footboard or foot board
  • floorboard or floor board

I don't pretend to know what is "correct". But, I do know what they are called in the official Moto Guzzi Spare Parts Catalogs: "footboards". Hence, I will refer to them as such.

Footboard replacement rubber mat

Thanks to John Ulrich and Greg Barratt of Stainless Cycle for providing some of this information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.

  • Moto Guzzi footboards - The original Moto Guzzi footboards accept a fairly generic sized rubber piece that can be sourced from any of a number of sources such as Drag Specialities Part Number DS254411.
  • Triple A, Bates, and Dan Brown (DB) footboards - These footboards have unique shapes that prevent the use of readily available replacements. Instead, a generic rubber mat can be cut to fit. Stair tread rubber from a local hardware store works well. Alternatively, McMaster-Carr sells a V-Rib Antislip rubber mat that works very well. Search for item number 6895T711.

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McMaster-Carr item number 6895T711 on John Ulrich's Bates footboardsMcMaster-Carr item number 6895T711 on John Ulrich's Bates footboards

Footboard set up - Bates

Thanks to John Ulrich for providing this information to me in a private email.

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My Boards are actually by Bates not DB. Here's a pair I purchased to get the shift arm. Notice the 'C' shaped bar to connect the front across the frame.My Boards are actually by Bates not DB. Here's a pair I purchased to get the shift arm. Notice the 'C' shaped bar to connect the front across the frame.

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You can see on mine the 'cam' type of mounting where I can turn the round 'offset hole' cam to lift or lower the boards.You can see on mine the 'cam' type of mounting where I can turn the round 'offset hole' cam to lift or lower the boards.

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Solid mounting tab of a Bates.Solid mounting tab of a Bates.

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Mounting bracket detail.Mounting bracket detail.

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Here's a picture of the mounting brackets before chroming if it helps. PS: Those are rear footrest on the top.Here's a picture of the mounting brackets before chroming if it helps. PS: Those are rear footrest on the top.

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This is the factory shifter that I cut off the back arm and reattached the 'heel' lower so you did not have to lift your so foot so high to shift. This was before I found the Bates shifter.This is the factory shifter that I cut off the back arm and reattached the 'heel' lower so you did not have to lift your so foot so high to shift. This was before I found the Bates shifter.

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Here's my extended brake arm that moves the pedal forward and out of the way so you can stretch out when riding. I was more concerned to maintain the nice slope/arc when the local muffler shop rewelded it. What I found out later is that it hit the footboard when stepped on because the longer arc also lowered the pad when it's extended. I raised it one notch on the spine and all well except it looks high. When I feel like 'wasting' a nice chrome job I'll heat it and bend it down a little.Here's my extended brake arm that moves the pedal forward and out of the way so you can stretch out when riding. I was more concerned to maintain the nice slope/arc when the local muffler shop rewelded it. What I found out later is that it hit the footboard when stepped on because the longer arc also lowered the pad when it's extended. I raised it one notch on the spine and all well except it looks high. When I feel like 'wasting' a nice chrome job I'll heat it and bend it down a little.

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I cannot find a better close-up of the Bates shifter. Greg knows it's a bugger to 'heel' but after a few months it's second nature. You do need to have all slop out of the shift linkage or the front 'toe' will hit the board when you downshift. You can raise it but then you are also lowering the 'heel' when takes more ankle to push it to upshift.I cannot find a better close-up of the Bates shifter. Greg knows it's a bugger to 'heel' but after a few months it's second nature. You do need to have all slop out of the shift linkage or the front 'toe' will hit the board when you downshift. You can raise it but then you are also lowering the 'heel' when takes more ankle to push it to upshift.

Footboard shift levers and linkage

Thanks to Joe Jump for encouraging me to go into more detail with the differences in the shift levers. Also thanks to Craig Sheldrick for sending me information about the dog leg differences via email.

For the loop frames, Moto Guzzi used footboard shift levers which attached to the associated linkage via bent rod held in place with a cotter pin. Later models (Convert, G5, etc) had a solid 6 mm shaft welded to the shift pedal and the associated linkage was held in place with a circlip. Within the shift levers, it seems there were at least a couple of different varieties. Some were straight while others had dog leg bends in them.

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Inside view of both shift lever styles. Top shift lever is a later Tonti framed model. Bottom shift lever is from a loop frame.Inside view of both shift lever styles. Top shift lever is a later Tonti framed model. Bottom shift lever is from a loop frame.

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Inside close up of the loop frame shift lever.Inside close up of the loop frame shift lever.

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Inside close up of the Tonti frame shift lever.Inside close up of the Tonti frame shift lever.

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Outside view of both shift lever styles. Top shift lever is a later Tonti framed model. Bottom shift lever is from a loop frame.Outside view of both shift lever styles. Top shift lever is a later Tonti framed model. Bottom shift lever is from a loop frame.

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Outside close up of the loop frame shift lever.Outside close up of the loop frame shift lever.

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Outside close up of the Tonti frame shift lever.Outside close up of the Tonti frame shift lever.

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Pegs on the levers are different, too. The loop frame pegs are longer than the later Tonti framed model pegs.Pegs on the levers are different, too. The loop frame pegs are longer than the later Tonti framed model pegs.

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Another view of the pegs without rubbers.Another view of the pegs without rubbers.

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Rubber on the loop frame pegs are hollow all the way through. Rubber on the later Tonti framed model pegs is closed on the end.Rubber on the loop frame pegs are hollow all the way through. Rubber on the later Tonti framed model pegs is closed on the end.

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Two different version of loop frame shift levers. Note the dog leg in the top shift lever as well as the standard bent rod. Photo courtesty of Craig Sheldrick.Two different version of loop frame shift levers. Note the dog leg in the top shift lever as well as the standard bent rod. Photo courtesty of Craig Sheldrick.

Footboards with leg shields

Moto Guzzi never provided a means of mounting footboards with leg shields. Leg shields were designed to be used with foot pegs, but not with footboards. Frank Granli wanted the best of both worlds and sent this information to me in a private communication. In Frank's own words:

The pictures also show leg shields "adjusted" to fit footboards. I have already used them on a wet road, and the effect on my feet was very good - I remain dry even on my shoes.

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