Suzuki DR350
Suzuki DR350 parts, supplies & service that I personally support
Table of contents
B
C
F
G
H
J
L
M
O
P
S
- Seals used on the DR350
- Shift lever replacements
- Shock adjustment wrench
- Shock spring bearing
- Spare parts catalogs / exploded parts diagrams / parts fiche
- Spark plug resistor cap
- Speedometer - Baja Designs
T
W
Featured sections
- Spare parts catalogs / exploded parts diagrams / parts fiche
- Workshop manuals / shop manuals / service manuals
Photo courtesy of Angela Bender.
My 1993 DR350
Updated: 2012 Mar 08
Bearings
Updated: 2011 Apr 22
I pulled this data directly from the actual bearings on 1990 DR350 parts bike I purchased.
| Suzuki Part Number | ID | OD | Width | Seals | Brand | Part Number | Extra Markings |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Suzuki part number 09262-20121 | 20 mm | 47 mm | 14 mm | open | Koyo | 6204RHR | HR, SH |
| Suzuki part number 09262-30077 | 30 mm | 72 mm | 19 mm | open | Koyo | 6306 | SH |
| Suzuki part number 08113-69050 | 25 mm | 42 mm | 9 mm | open | Koyo | 6905 | |
| Suzuki part number 09262-20145 | 20 mm | 52 mm | 15 mm | open | Koyo | 6304 | |
| Suzuki part number 09262-17038 | 17 mm | 42 mm | 12 mm | open | Koyo | 6203R/ID | |
| Suzuki part number 09262-20121 | 20 mm | 47 mm | 14 mm | open | Koyo | 6204RHR | HR, SH |
| Suzuki part number 09262-17027 | 17 mm | 40 mm | 12 mm | 1RS | Koyo | 6203RUD | |
| Suzuki part number 09262-22024 | 22 mm | 56 mm | 16 mm | 1RS | NTN | 63/22 LAX | LX |
Brake disc replacement
Updated: 2012 Jul 02
Front brake disc
The front brake disc on my 1993 DR350 measured 3.2 mm
thick and with the minimum thickness at 3 mm
, I decided to go ahead and replace it. The workshop manual mentioned 3.5 mm
as the original thickness and I figured 0.3 mm
of wear was enough for such an important safety component. I purchased a replacement disc from eBay seller: extreme_shop; the disc came complete with a new set of Sumo Brakes
brand Kevlar brake pads. The disc is made in Argentina by H&D (Primer Fabricante de Pastillas y Discos de Freno para Motos Certificado y Homologado de la Republica Argentina) and is part number 8003.
The replacement disc has an identical shape as the original.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
I measured the thickness of my original disc in a location where it had not been reduced by pad wear. My original disc was 3.3 mm thick (my original disc only had 0.1 mm of wear). The new disc measures 4.2 mm thick. Given the minimum thickness is 3 mm thick, the new disc provides a huge increase in usable thickness over the original disc. More on this in a moment.
Unlike the rear brake disc, I was able to easily remove the original button-head
bolts with the intended hex tool. I'm not sure if Suzuki used a different thread locking compound on the rear bolts (I suspect they might not have used any on the bolts securing the rear disc). But thread locking compound certainly does protect the threads from seizing. The front bolts do accept a larger hex tool than the rear bolts, so this also greatly aids later removal.
I fit OEM replacement bolts from Suzuki (Suzuki part number 09106-08155
. These bolts are 8 mm
× 1.25 mm
× 20 mm
button head socket cap bolts and came with blue thread locking compound applied to them. I torqued to 18 pound feet. Since the bolts have a 4 mm
step
under the head, a generic replacement would be a bit difficult to find.
After all of this, I discovered that the 4.2 mm thickness of the new brake disc is too thick and rubs constantly on the the new pads. So, I had to revert to my original disc (which wasn't nearly so worn as I feared, anyway). The eBay seller (extreme_shop) is standing behind the product they sell and is providing me with a full refund (good stuff, that).
Rear brake disc
The rear brake disc on my 1993 DR350 was well under the minimum thickness of 3.5 mm
and I needed a replacement. I purchased a replacement disc from eBay seller: extreme_shop; the disc came complete with a new set of Sumo Brakes
brand Kevlar brake pads. The disc is made in Argentina by H&D (Primer Fabricante de Pastillas y Discos de Freno para Motos Certificado y Homologado de la Republica Argentina) and is part number 8002.
The replacement disc has an identical shape as the original.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
I measured the thickness of my original disc in a location where it had not been reduced by pad wear. My original disc was 3.9 mm thick. The new disc measures 4.3 mm thick. Given the minimum thickness is 3.5 mm thick, the new disc gives me twice the usable thickness of the original disc. I like that.
I was unable to remove the original button-head
bolts with the intended hex tool. Even after fully heating the bolt and surrounding casting, the hex-shaped holes within the button-head bolts simply rounded off instantly. Rather than waste time attempting to drill out each bolt, I grabbed a set of inexpensive old wrenches and welded the box end of the wrench to the bolt head. I made sure to direct plenty of heat from the weld into the bolt. Immediately after each weld was complete, I was able to turn out each bolt easily.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
I fit OEM replacement bolts from Suzuki (Suzuki part number 09106-08091 or Suzuki part number 09106-08111 or Suzuki part number 09106-08128 ). These bolts are 8 mm × 1.25 mm × 16 mm button head socket cap bolts and came without any thread locking compound applied to them. I applied blue loctite to the threads and torqued to 18 pound feet. Were I to source a generic replacement, I would select a hardened bolt. Something like McMaster-Carr part number 91239A418 ought to work great.
Breather filter
Updated: 2012 Aug 06
From the factory, my 1993 Suzuki DR350 motorcycle was fit with a one way breather valve at the end of the three-hose breather assembly connecting the airbox to the engine block. This third atmosphere
hose was routed somewhere up near the top of the carburetor, as near as I can tell. A previous owner removed this one way breather valve and replaced it with a hose barb and a breather filter. I have no idea if this is a worthwhile modification or not. However, since the replacement hose assembly from Suzuki is sold as an entire unit and is expensive, I decided to replace the very worn breather filter with a new breather filter.
First attempt
I chose an inexpensive unit made in China by Spectre Industries, model number 3994. The nice thing about this filter (other than the lovely yellow color) is that it is made to fit 8 mm to 10 mm hose barbs. A 10 mm (or 3⁄8 inch hose barb connects the original hose to this filter nicely. Of course, I fit a couple of hose clamps to keep everything in place.
Spectre 3994 breather filter as fit to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Amazon.
3⁄8 inch splice used to join the breather hose to the breather filter on my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of eBay auction.
Second attempt
After fitting the new replacement Spectre breather filter (see above), I immediately realized two problems:
- The metal end-caps on the Spectre breather filter are in - pretty much - constant contact with parts of the cylinder head. I don't like this metal-on-metal rubbing.
- The Spectre breather filter is larger than my previous breather filter, and is more difficult to fit in the space available.
After a bit more searching, I discovered the UNI UP-122 breather filter. Smaller size, no metal components, and the 3⁄8 inch male fitting fits very nicely into the 10 mm ID hose without any need for a splice. This one is staying on there (anyone want to buy a nearly new Spectre breather filter?).
UNI UP-122 breather filter as fit to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Powersport Superstore.
Carburetor jets
Updated: 2012 Jun 14
Mikuni TM33 SS pumper carburetor
Pilot jets
The VM28.486
series of jets is what will work in the stock dirt carburetor (Mikuni TM33 SS). The N224.103
series of jets may look like they will work, but they will not fit.
Photo courtesy of Niche Cycle Supply.
Main jets
The N100.604
series of jets is what was fit from the factory. The N102.221
series of jets will also work perfectly well, although the diameter of the head is smaller.
The dimensions of the N100.604
jet are as follows.
- Diameter of the slotted head: 8 mm
- Overall length: 9 mm
- Thread size: 5 mm × 0.75 mm
The dimensions of the N102.221
jet are as follows.
- Diameter of the slotted head: 6 mm
- Overall length: 9 mm
- Thread size: 5 mm × 0.75 mm
Photo courtesy of Niche Cycle Supply.
Mikuni BST33 SS constant velocity carburetor
Pilot jets
The N151.067
series of jets is what will work.
Photo courtesy of Niche Cycle Supply.
Main jets
The N100.604
series of jets is what was fit from the factory. The N102.221
series of jets will also work perfectly well, although the diameter of the head is smaller.
The dimensions of the N100.604
jet are as follows.
- Diameter of the slotted head: 8 mm
- Overall length: 9 mm
- Thread size: 5 mm × 0.75 mm
The dimensions of the N102.221
jet are as follows.
- Diameter of the slotted head: 6 mm
- Overall length: 9 mm
- Thread size: 5 mm × 0.75 mm
Photo courtesy of Niche Cycle Supply.
Carburetor rebuild kit
Updated: 2012 Jul 31
Mikuni TM33 SS pumper carburetor
Thanks to Mark Hoare for sending me this information in a private email. Niche Cycle Supply sells a carburetor kit for the Mikuni TM33-8012. From Niche's eBay page:
Genuine Mikuni rebuild kit. Includes the following parts for the TM33-8012:
- Top cover gasket
- E-ring
- E-ring shim
- Spring, idle adjuster
- needle valve assembly
- screw, needle valve holder
- O-ring, needle valve
- filter, needle valve
- O-ring, float bowl
- screw, float bowl long
- screw, float bowl short
- O-ring, accel pump nozzle
- plug, accel pump
- pilot screw
- spring, pilot screw
- washer, pilot screw
- O-ring, pilot screw
- cap, accel pump plunger
- O-ring, choke assembly
Applications: Mikuni TM33-8012 Carbs
Mikuni Part # MK-8012
Mikuni BST33 SS constant velocity carburetor
Thanks to Phil Young for sending me this information in a private email.
Carb kit model number K-583 made by Keyster. Fits the following Suzuki models:
- DR250 SE 1993 - 1995
- DR250 S 1990 - 1992
- DR350 SE 1994 - 1999
- DR350 S 1990 - 1999
- GS500 E 1989 - 2000
- GSX1100 G 1991 - 1993
- GSX600 1996 - 1997 (float seat not correct)
The kit is available from Sirius Consolidated Inc.
Clarke tank
Updated: 2010 Aug 24
Earlier this year I installed a larger Clarke tank on my 1993 DR350. I love the larger capacity. But, I started to notice that the right side of the tank was rubbing on portions of the decompression lever assembly.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Crash bars
Updated: 2013 Jan 03
Zac (mustangwagz on the Adventure Rider forum) found this kit on eBay. Seems to be an aftermarket crash bar kit, perhaps made in Germany. Appears very well put together.
Photo courtesy of eBay auction.
Photo courtesy of eBay auction.
Photo courtesy of eBay auction.
Photo courtesy of eBay auction.
Photo courtesy of eBay auction.
Photo courtesy of eBay auction.
Photo courtesy of eBay auction.
Photo courtesy of eBay auction.
Photo courtesy of eBay auction.
Fork boot/gaiter information
Updated: 2010 Jan 15
Searching the Internet, I couldn't find much in the way of definitive information on replacement fork boot fitment for the DR350. Folks mentioned replacing them, but no one seemed to have specifics. So, I measured up my fork and ordered a Daystar replacement boot. Here are the details for anyone else so inclined.
- Diameter of fork tube (top dimension of fork boot): 43 mm
- Diameter of fork lower (bottom dimension of fork boot): 55 mm
- Fully extended length of the fork boot (from fork lower mounting point to immediately under the top triple clamp): approximately 15 inch
- Daystar series MX00069 is a good fit and is available in a wide variety of colors.
I reused the original metal clamps in lieu of the provided zip ties. With the forks in their lowest position in the triple trees and fully extended, the boots reach nicely from immediately under the lower triple tree to the proper mounting location on the fork lowers. The fit at the top and bottom is quite nice...not too snug nor too loose.
The last two letters BK
signify the color of the fork boots (these are available in a wide variety of colors). So, it is really only the first part MX00069
that you need to be concerned about.
I couldn't find the DR350 listed anywhere on their website (or anywhere else, for that matter), but these fit many other machines, such as the 1982 Honda CR480R. I bought these from Rocky Mountain ATV.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Front fender - UFO cross reference
Updated: 2010 Feb 22
A common replacement front fender is the UFO front fender originally made for the following models:
- Suzuki RM125/RM250, 2001 to 2008
- Suzuki RMZ250, 2007 to 2008
- Suzuki RMZ450, 2005 to 2007
The UFO part numbers for this fender include:
- SU03985-102 (yellow
- SU03985-001 (black)
- SU03985-041 (white)
The Parts Unlimited part numbers for this fender include:
- 1403-0053 (yellow
- 1403-0054 (black)
- 1403-0055 (white)
This fender is pre-drilled and bolts on in the existing location without any need for alteration.
OEM Cycle is *one* place to get them.
Gearing calculator
Updated: 2013 Mar 12
Thanks to Jim Randall for creating this gearing calculaion spreadsheet for the DR350.
| Download Name and Link | File Size | Number of Pages in File |
|---|---|---|
| 17 KB | 1 page |
Hand guards - Tusk D-Flex
Updated: 2011 Mar 15
Here are some photos of how I've mounted the Tusk D-Flex hand guards sold by Rocky Mountain ATV/MC on my 1993 Suzuki DR350. For reference, I'm also using the Tusk T-10 Aluminum handlebar, CR Mid Bend.
Tusk D-Flex hand guards mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk D-Flex hand guards mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk D-Flex hand guards mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk D-Flex hand guards mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk D-Flex hand guards mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk D-Flex hand guards mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk D-Flex hand guards mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk D-Flex hand guards mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk D-Flex hand guards mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk D-Flex hand guards mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Handlebars - Tusk T-10 Aluminum, CR Mid Bend
Updated: 2011 Mar 16
Here are some photos of the Tusk T-10 Aluminum, CR Mid Bend handlebars sold by Rocky Mountain ATV/MC on my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Tusk T-10 Aluminum, CR Mid Bend handlebars mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk T-10 Aluminum, CR Mid Bend handlebars mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk T-10 Aluminum, CR Mid Bend handlebars mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk T-10 Aluminum, CR Mid Bend handlebars mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk T-10 Aluminum, CR Mid Bend handlebars mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk T-10 Aluminum, CR Mid Bend handlebars mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk T-10 Aluminum, CR Mid Bend handlebars mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Hour meter installation
Updated: 2010 Oct 27
Please see the follow-up information at the bottom of this section.
I wanted to add an hour meter to my DR350 to aid in knowing when to perform routine maintenance. I found one on eBay made by ProPower.
I made a simple bracket out of some aluminum flat stock I had, and mounted it to the left bolt that secures the trip meter in place.
As for wiring, I grounded it to the bolt on the frame that normally secures the wiring harness loom in place with a clip. For the positive supply, I hooked it into circuit feeding the headlight.
A quick test showed it functions fine. I like that it is out of the way, yet easily viewed whenever I have the desire.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Follow-up
The Pro Power hour meter lasted for 79.9 hours and then died. Obviously it was not up to the task. I do not recommend the Pro Power hour meter.
JAGG oil cooler installation instructions
Updated: 2010 Nov 01
Although the complete kit specific to the DR350 is no longer available from Setrab (JAGG), these are the JAGG instructions for installing an oil cooler on a Suzuki DR350.
| Download Name and Link | File Size | Number of Pages in File |
|---|---|---|
| 127 KB | 1 page |
To view PDF files, you will need to download and install the free Adobe Acrobat Reader.
NOTE: If you have trouble viewing PDF files inside your browser, try saving them to your computer (right-click the link, then choose the save option). Then, open each file directly in Adobe Acrobat Reader.
Luggage rack by ManRacks
Updated: 2011 Mar 14
Mike from ManRacks sent me a luggage rack for my 1993 DR350. Mike has just recently begun creating luggage racks for the Suzuki DR350 and he sent me (and a few other folks) the first prototypes for evaluation. I am thrilled that Mike would consider me a worthy recipient. Thanks, Mike!
When Mike first contacted me about sending one, I figured I might see it in a month or two. Not so, it was in my mailbox two days later. If that's the way he runs the rest of his business, he'll have a lot of happy customers.
My first impression when I examined the rack is that it is well thought out and well made. The construction is straight, flat, and true. The welds are obviously made by a professional. The powder coat finish is quite nice.
Installation couldn't have been easier. Remove three fasteners, flex the plastic fender down just a bit, and slide the rear center tab in place. The rear center tab is secured in place with the original fastener. Mike sent along two longer bolts (8 mm × 1.25 mm × 50 mm ) to replace the original front two bolts. I found them about 5 mm - 10 mm too long, as they bottomed out before tightening up fully. I've told Mike of this and he has already purchased shorter bolts. Other than that very minor nit, the rack fit perfectly.
The rack appears quite strong and is very securely attached to the frame. I grabbed the rack and attempted to flex, twist, and turn it. No go. It is nice and solid.
From the pictures, you can see that I typically ride with my Dirt Bike Gear rear fender bag. The ManRacks luggage rack obviously interferes with the rear fender bag. I'm going to ask Mike if he'll make me one that will permit me to mount the ManRacks luggage rack at the same time as the rear fender bag (similar to the apparent design of the DR650 luggage rack he makes). See revised rack below.
All told, I think Mike's luggage rack is a nice piece of equipment. I can't wait to strap on some gear and give it a thorough workout.
Fitting a ManRacks DR350 luggage rack to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Fitting a ManRacks DR350 luggage rack to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Fitting a ManRacks DR350 luggage rack to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Fitting a ManRacks DR350 luggage rack to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Fitting a ManRacks DR350 luggage rack to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Fitting a ManRacks DR350 luggage rack to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Fitting a ManRacks DR350 luggage rack to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Fitting a ManRacks DR350 luggage rack to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
The revised luggage rack
I asked Mike if he would make a revised rack that would permit me to keep my Dirt Bike Gear rear fender bag in place at the same time as the luggage rack. Less than a week after my request the freshly powder coated rack was at my house. Incredible! Fit is perfect with my rear fender bag and installation is just as quick and easy as the first rack he sent me. Good stuff - I love it!
The revised ManRacks DR350 luggage rack fit to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
The revised ManRacks DR350 luggage rack fit to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
The revised ManRacks DR350 luggage rack fit to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
The revised ManRacks DR350 luggage rack fit to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
The revised ManRacks DR350 luggage rack fit to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
The revised ManRacks DR350 luggage rack fit to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
The revised ManRacks DR350 luggage rack fit to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
The revised ManRacks DR350 luggage rack fit to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
The revised ManRacks DR350 luggage rack fit to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Mirrors
Updated: 2012 Jul 02
The mirror mounts on the Suzuki DR350 are 10 mm × 1.25 mm . If you are going off pavement, then I would highly recommend a mirror that is not hard/solid mounted.
The Acerbis universal mirror is horrible. It will get you through an inspection, but it is hardly worth the effort. Truly junk. For reference, part numbers 2043570001 and 2043580001. These were fit to my DR350 (by the previous owner) when I bought it. I couldn't get rid of them fast enough.
The Ken Sean Dual Sport Mirror is a good choice. It is fiddly to set up properly, requiring multiple wrenches, but works pretty well and is inexpensive. After some wear, you'll need to tighten things up again. It is always a bit more trouble than I would like to get just the right amount of pressure so it isn't too tight, but not so little as to permit it to jiggle out of position.
I swapped out my Ken Sean mirror for a ram mount mirror from my friend Mike Sonzini. Total cost is about $50 for the mirror and ram mounts, so it isn't nearly as inexpensive. However, it is very easily adjustable without tools, holds it's position very well, and moves out of the way easily when bumped. So far, it is a better mirror and I like it.
FYI, my DR350 (dirt) model did not come with a threaded mount on the clutch perch for a mirror. But the threaded clamp piece from a street model fits perfectly and is inexpensively available from Suzuki. I carry the original non-threaded clamp in case I destroy the other one in a wreck.
I do not fit any mirror on the right front brake perch because I do not wish to risk damaging or destroying the master cylinder. One mirror is enough.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Oil cooler
Updated: 2013 Mar 12
The original oil cooler was an optional upgrade and most DR350's do not have them fitted. I've seen very few pictures of them. When Dr.Z posted his for sale on Adventure Rider, I grabbed the images...then later a few more photos from an eBay auction.
Photo courtesy of Dr.Z.
Photo courtesy of Dr.Z.
Photo courtesy of Dr.Z.
Photo courtesy of eBay auction.
Photo courtesy of eBay auction.
Photo courtesy of eBay auction.
Photo courtesy of eBay auction.
Photo courtesy of eBay auction.
Photo courtesy of eBay auction.
Photo courtesy of eBay auction.
Photo courtesy of eBay auction.
Photo courtesy of eBay auction.
Oil hose replacement
Updated: 2013 Apr 06
After 17 years, I figured it was time to replace the oil hoses on my 1993 DR350. They had not failed, but I figured it was better to be safe than sorry.
I started by doing a bit of research to determine the pressures I would be dealing with. The engine is designed to work with 20 PSI of oil pressure. But, I do not believe the oil hoses are subjected to even this low amount of pressure. Why? Well, after examining the engine lubrication system chart in the workshop manual (chapter 4, page 8), I learned that one of the oil hoses is under suction
as it feeds the oil pump while the other two oil hoses are under very low pressure as they return oil up into the top of the frame (there should be essentially zero restriction getting the oil back up into the tank). If you examine the oil flow diagram, you'll see what I'm talking about.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Alright, we are not dealing with high pressure. Still, oil temperature can get quite hot. I figured 212° fahrenheit is about as hot as I'd ever want the oil to get. Members of the Maximum Suzuki forum encouraged me to get something that could tolerate temperatures of at least 300° fahrenheit. I figured that would be a good safety margin, too.
After purchasing a couple of stainless steel braided hoses that would not fit, I wound up finding a good hose at my local NAPA. The hose is made by Gates and is part number H-1946, is 1⁄2 inch inside diameter, and is transmission oil cooler hose. It is good for a constant 300° fahrenheit and 400 PSI working pressure. You can search for it on the NAPA website. Get three feet and you'll have enough for a mistake or two.
Christopher Lowden contacted me with an alternative to the Gate hose: Aeroquip part number FC332-08. Thanks, Christopher.
Installation was the easy part. After draining the oil, I removed the complete oil hose assembly, taking note of the routing for subsequent installation. I then cut off each original fitting using a hacksaw with the hose clamped in my bench vice. I measured the original length and then cut my new hose to the same length. I fit the hoses to the steel lines, but I did not clamp the hoses on at this point...choosing instead to wait until they were positioned properly on the engine.
I replaced the two O-rings that seal the steel oil lines to the engine case (under the flanges that are secured to the engine case with two allen head bolts). I had forgotten to order these when I had placed a recent order with ThumperTalk. I found that AS568A Dash Number 112 O-rings fit and sealed perfectly, so I used them. Yes, I know they are not metric O-rings, but it really doesn't matter in this application.
I also should have had replacement crush washers on hand for the two banjo bolts. But the originals were in fine shape and I reused them.
During installation, I found that I could use stronger wide band worm drive hose clamps on most connections (I reused old worm drive hose clamps I had lying around the garage). On the two lowest connections, I found that the larger worm drive hose clamps would interfere with the engine case and/or skid plate. So, I used some good quality narrow band worm drive hose clamps in these locations. I mention good quality
because a lot of the worm drive hose clamps sold in auto parts stores (or Walmart) are complete junk and not strong enough for even the lightest task. Just make sure you use some good ones.
That's really it. Don't forget to put oil back in and to kick the engine over a bunch of times before starting it to get the oil circulating again.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Parts, supplies, and service
Updated: 2012 Sep 13
I personally support these businesses.
- Cogent Dynamics: First choice for RaceTech suspension upgrades
- Dirt-Bike-Gear: Really tough packs
- Kientech Engineering: Jesse is the man
- ManRacks: Great luggage racks
- Niche Cycle Supply: Excellent source for carburetor jets
- Rocky Mountain ATV/MC: Great source for OEM & aftermarket parts
- Sweet Cheeks: Comfortable improvement for long pavement rides with your stock seat
- ThumperTalk: Best prices I've found on OEM parts
Petcock replacement
Updated: 2010 Sep 04
When I fit my Clarke tank, I decided to install a new petcock at the same time. My original petcock was functioning perfectly. But Suzuki doesn't sell a new gasket (without purchasing the complete petcock for USD $57.16). There are rebuild kits available, but they run USD $15.00 and up (more for the vacuum actuated petcocks used on the CV carburetors). Fortunately, I learned from a post over at the Maximum Suzuki forum that a petcock from a 2001 - 2005 Yamaha Raptor 660 fits and works perfectly. Yamaha used this petcock in many other applications, too. I purchased mine from boats.net as I found they had the lowest price (including shipping) at the time (cost delivered to my door was USD $24.67). I've used the Yamaha Raptor petcock now for ~80 hours without any trouble at all. It is a good, inexpensive solution.
Part number variation:
- 5LP-24500-01-00
- 5LP 24500 01 00
- 5LP245000100
Model fitment:
- 2001 YFM660RN - Raptor
- 2001 YFM660RNC - Raptor
- 2002 YFM660RP - Raptor
- 2002 YFM660RPB - Raptor Limited Edition
- 2003 YFM660RLER - Raptor Black Limited Edition
- 2003 YFM660RR - Raptor 660R
- 2004 YFM660RLES - Raptor Limited Edition
- 2004 YFM660RS - Raptor 660
- 2005 YFM660RT - Raptor 660
- 2005 YFM660RSET - Raptor SE
Seals used on the DR350
Updated: 2013 Apr 05
| Description | Suzuki Part Number | ID | OD | Width |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kickstart shaft | Suzuki part number 09283-20044 | 20 mm | 27 mm | 6 mm |
| Front wheel bearing (left side only) | Suzuki part number 09284-22004 | 22 mm | 35 mm | 5 mm |
| Rear wheel bearing (right side) | Suzuki part number 09282-26001 | 26 mm | 42 mm | 8 mm |
| Rear wheel bearing (left side) | Suzuki part number 09283-26019 | 26 mm | 47 mm | 5 mm |
| Crankshaft oil seal (internal) | Suzuki part number 09282-14003 | 14 mm | 24 mm | 6 mm |
| Decompression shaft oil seal | Suzuki part number 09282-10014 | 10 mm | 17 mm | 6 mm |
| Valve stem oil seal | Suzuki part number 09289-05011 | 4.5 mm | 10 mm | 8 mm |
| Shift shaft oil seal where the clutch cable pulls on the lever to disengage the clutch | Suzuki part number 09285-10004 | 10 mm | 17 mm | 5 mm |
| Countershaft sprocket oil seal | Suzuki part number 09283-22025 | 22 mm | 34 mm | 7 mm |
| Shift shaft oil seal where the shift lever exits the left side of the engine | Suzuki part number 09285-12006 | 12 mm | 22 mm | 9 mm |
| Rear brake pedal oil seal | Suzuki part number 09284-15006 | 15 mm | 21 mm | 3 mm |
| Fork seals | Suzuki part number 51153-14D00 | mm | mm | mm |
| Swing arm oil seal | Suzuki part number 09285-22001 | 22 mm | 29 mm | 4 mm |
| Swing arm | Suzuki part number 09285-17001 | 17 mm | 24 mm | 3 mm |
Shift lever replacements
Updated: 2011 Apr 12
- EMGO part number 83-88087
- IMS part number 315514; fits Suzuki DR250 (1990-1995), DR350 (1990-1999), DR650 (1990-2006)
- Moose part number MSU11 (DR250/350 90-92); MSU12 (DR250/350 93-99, DR350 97-99)
Shock adjustment wrench
Updated: 2012 Jul 11
Sick and tired of using an ill-fitting wrench, I purchased the correct size wrench in order to adjust the rear shock. Not free, but excellent quality and fitment is nice. McMaster-Carr part number 6975A21. It does not magically permit greater access to the shock adjustment ring, but the proper tool is nice to have.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Shock spring bearing
Updated: 2012 Jun 28
I read about this idea and figured I would give it a try. Some claim improved shock performance because the spring is free to naturally twist as it expands and collapses. The added height will afford a bit more preload adjustment. But I could care less about either of those purported benefits. Instead, I wanted greater ease of preload adjustment and using a bearing significantly reduces the effort required to adjust the preload.
I first contacted Pivot Works directly to see if they had anything that would fit the dimensions of the DR350 (55 mm ID). They were not willing to check any dimensions and gave me the standard line that if they had something for the DR350, that it would already be listed for the DR350. Bummer, I would have liked their solution with the built in O-rings for sealing out the dust. Instead, I purchased a needle roller thrust bearing and two washers from McMaster-Carr, part numbers 5909K22 and 5909K82.
- Bearing cage assembly: McMaster-Carr part number 5909K22: 55 mm × 78 mm × 3 mm ; INA part number AXK5578 (35602)
- Washers: McMaster-Carr part number 5909K82: 55 mm × 78 mm × 1 mm ; INA part number AS5578 (19640)
I greased up the bearing and washers well and installed them. To help keep dirt out, I fit a section from a piece of inner tube around the bearing. So far, it works well.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Spare parts catalogs / exploded parts diagrams / parts fiche
Updated: 2011 Apr 18
I gleaned this information from numerous online resources.
| Download Name and Link | File Size | Number of Pages in File |
|---|---|---|
| 7,288 KB | 133 pages | |
| 3,037 KB | 171 pages | |
| 7,477 KB | 111 pages | |
| 3,768 KB | 121 pages |
To view PDF files, you will need to download and install the free Adobe Acrobat Reader.
NOTE: If you have trouble viewing PDF files inside your browser, try saving them to your computer (right-click the link, then choose the save option). Then, open each file directly in Adobe Acrobat Reader.
Spark plug resistor cap
Updated: 2010 Mar 23
I recently replaced my original spark plug cap with an NGK VD05FP (8429). Has the waterproof covers. Fits and works a treat. I've a 1993 DR350. You'll want to check the specifications to make sure it works with the later spark plugs, etc. Here is a great document from NGK that will tell you about each resistor cover (as they call them).
Speedometer - Baja Designs
Updated: 2010 Nov 11
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tire mounting lubricant
Updated: 2010 Dec 09
In the past I've used all manner of lubricants from soap to WD-40. I never had any trouble with any of them, though I was always careful to wash off the excess.
Several years ago I bought a gallon of the real stuff and I've been using it ever since. It is inexpensive, lasts a long time, and does a great job.
Balkamp tire mounting lubricant, part number 7652434, sold by NAPA.
O-rings used on the DR350
Updated: 2012 Jul 11
I've been documenting the commonly used (and replaced) O-rings used on the DR350. Some of the sizes are specified within the spare parts catalogs and - indeed - most of those stated sizes are accurate. I've also found other sizes just as good and/or better, more easily sourced, and less expensive.
O-ring to seal the oil lines to the engine case (Suzuki part number 09280-12008)
- Cross section: 2.4 mm
- ID: 12.3 mm
This size O-ring is easily sourced and fits very well.
O-ring to seal the dip stick to the frame (Suzuki part number 09280-17003)
- Cross section: 3.1 mm
- ID: 16.8 mm
This size is a bit difficult to find. I've found a metric O-ring with a cross section of 3 mm and an ID of 17 mm to work equally well.
O-ring to seal the oil strainer to the frame near where the frame oil is drained (Suzuki part number 09280-22008)
- Cross section: 3.1 mm
- ID: 22.7 mm
This size is a bit difficult to find. I've found a metric O-ring with a cross section of 3 mm and an ID of 23 mm to work equally well.
O-ring to seal the oil filter to the engine case (Suzuki part number 09280-16005 or Suzuki part number 09280-15007)
- Cross section: 2.4 mm
- ID: 15.8 mm
This size O-ring is easily sourced and fits very well.
O-ring to seal the oil filter cover to the engine case (Suzuki part number 09280-72001)
- Cross section: 2.4 mm
- ID: 73 mm
This size is a bit difficult to find. I've found dash size -150 or a metric O-ring with a cross section of 2.5 mm and an ID of 73 mm to work equally well.
O-ring to seal the carburetor intake manifold to the cylinder head (Suzuki part number 09280-40010)
- Cross section: 2.5 mm
- ID: 40 mm
This size O-ring is easily sourced and fits very well.
I've found that dash size -129 O-ring works equally well.
O-ring to seal the valve inspection covers to the cylinder head (Suzuki part number 11177-14D00 or Suzuki part number 11177-14D01)
- Cross section: 2.5 mm
- ID: 55 mm
I've found that dash size -138 O-ring works equally well.
O-ring to seal the large plug to the magneto cover (Suzuki part number 09280-33004)
- Cross section: 2.7 mm
- ID: 33 mm
I've found that dash size -218 O-ring works equally well.
Wheel bearings and seals
Updated: 2012 Jul 05
This information comes from my 1993 DR350 dirt bike without a cush drive. When sourcing replacement bearings, I like to use bearings that are sealed on both sides. This does not eliminate the need for additional seals.
Front wheel bearings and seals used on my 1993 Suzuki DR350
- 6202: 15 mm ID × 35 mm OD × 11 mm width (2 of these bearings are required)
- Seal: 22 mm ID × 35 mm OD × 5 mm width (1 of these seals is required)
Rear wheel bearings and seals used on my 1993 Suzuki DR350 (no cush drive)
- 6004: 20 mm ID × 42 mm OD × 12 mm width (2 of these bearings are required)
- 6204: 20 mm ID × 47 mm OD × 14 mm width (1 of these bearings is required)
- Seal: 26 mm ID × 42 mm OD × 7 mm width (1 of these seals is required)
- Seal: 26 mm ID × 47 mm OD × 6 mm width (1 of these seals is required)
Workshop manuals / shop manuals / service manuals
Updated: 2012 Sep 15
This information was gleaned from suzukidr350.com - G Man's Suzuki DR 350 Resources (http://www.suzukidr350.com/suzukidr350/majorrepairs/majorrepairs.htm). I am making it available here only because the suzukidr350.com website is no longer available.
Update (2012 Sep 15): I have significantly improved the image quality on all pages and enabled text searching capabilities - all while reducing the file size. In short, a nicer version of the original. Enjoy!
| Download Name and Link | File Size | Number of Pages in File |
|---|---|---|
| 51,363 KB | 394 pages |
To view PDF files, you will need to download and install the free Adobe Acrobat Reader.
NOTE: If you have trouble viewing PDF files inside your browser, try saving them to your computer (right-click the link, then choose the save option). Then, open each file directly in Adobe Acrobat Reader.
